Quote of the Week: "Enjoy it in moderation, dreaming, loving .. without rushing." ~ Mezcal Los Amantes

Still Chewing on the Big Apple



(Photo by the lovely and talented Kari Otero)

Ten years ago nearly to the day, I was standing in the baggage claim area of La Guardia waiting for my giant teal green Jansport hiking backpack to tumble onto the luggage belt. I was wearing tan denim short overalls, a little white t-shirt with a tiny butterfly embroidered on the chest and hiking boots. Yep. You can take the girl out of the Midwest, but...

At that time, my drink of choice was beer, I was a little lost in the kitchen and my knowledge of cocktails was about as deep as cranberry and vodka in a rocks glass. There were countless culinary items that weren't even part of my vocabulary... like Eggs Benedict.

Now, ten years later, I'm sipping a homemade Cajun Bloody Mary, the last of a pitcher I mixed to go with the Eggs Florentine I made for brunch with with V., Mrs. O and LP.

A decade ago, I stepped off the plane and thought, I'll try New York out... at least for a little while. Secretly, I wondered if I could spend more than three or four years in any one place. Turns out, the sights, sounds, and tastes of New York have fueled my appetite for more, not less of the chaotic, churning, edible metropolis. And, thank Dionysus, my taste in fashion has also improved.

Although I didn't set out to commemorate my 10-year NYC anniversary, this weekend was full of celebration. It all began Thursday night when I went back to Death and Company for cocktails, and someone asked me how long I had lived in New York. Ten years? Wow. That deserves some sort of celebration. Let the toasting and the drinking commence!

My first official anniversary toast was done with a Shattered Glasser. Take a deep breath before reading the next sentence... Ready? The Shattered Glasser contains El Tesoro Reposado (tequila), Batavia Arrack, Los Amantes Joven Mezcal, Carpano Antica Vermouth, Benedictine, Allspice Dram, and Bittermen's Mole Bitters.

If you glazed over half way through the list of ingredients, don't feel bad. The drink, like the list, is muddled. There was a certain tea-like earthiness to the amber concoction, and the allspice was present, but the rest was a jumble. Let's dissect the ingredients and see if we can find clarity, shall we?

El Tesoro Reposada tequila is aged in oak barrels to achieve "subtle wood tones," which easily accounts for the earthiness. According to various web sources, Batavia Arrack is a liquor distilled from sugar cane and fermented red rice in Indonesia that was a key ingredient in punches and early cocktails. The flavor remains a bit of a mystery. Some sites said it is smokey and sharp and others that it lifts citrus and chocolate notes in other liquors.

Mezcal, like tequila is distilled from agave. Vermouth is, as you already know, fortified wine commonly used in martinis and Manhattan's.

Benedictine is a french liqueur created by monks way back in the day (and I mean way back) from "27 plants and spices from the four corners of the globe." My goodness those French monks were busy. Chartreuse, Benedictine and all the other ones I have yet to discover. According to the company's web site, the flavors of Benedictine include "sweet, chocolate, spicy, honey, citrus fruits and smoked."

Allspice Dram is pretty straight forward. Allspice is a dried berry from Jamaica that tastes like cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg all rolled into one. Allspice Dram is a rum-based drink that is flavored with allspice. Bittermen's Mole Bitters feature spicy cocoa flavors similar to Mexican mole sauce, which is typically a blend of nuts, seeds, cocoa, oil and chili.

Three paragraphs later, it's not hard to see how why the cocktail tastes muddled. Too many liquors, too many flavors.

My second cocktail was the The Myra Beckenridge with Laphroig (single malt), Absinthe, lime juice and sugar cane syrup. Smokey lemonade. The absinthe flavor was lost. As V. said, why would you mix Absinthe with Laphroig? Exactly. Smokey scotch will win any day over an anise liqueur.

Friday night the celebrating continued with good art, good food and good wine. What is more New York than all three in one evening? My office closed early, which was fabulous and provided an otherwise hard-to-come-by chance to spend a few hours at the Museum of the International Center of Photography on 6th Avenue and 43rd Street. Friend R. and I took in the exhibit Avedon Fashion 1944-2000, which showcased the revolutionary fashion photographer's long career.

Visually satiated from striking black-and-white portraits, film-noir style scenes and the high drama of six decades of fashion photography, we decided it was time for a drink. Bryant Park Cafe was packed, but there was still space for two more, and it was so nice to be outside after a long day in my florescent-lit box.

Two glasses of Shiraz and two beers later, we were headed to the Upper West Side for dinner. R. introduced me to Barcibo Enoteca, a great Italian wine bar on 69th Street and Broadway. The menu is dense, but thankfully, I had time to peruse.

Following a recommendation from the waitress I ordered the spicy and delicious Rosso Piceno Boccadigabbia 2006. R. ordered the Monica Argiolas Perdera 2006 from Sardinia, which was not quite as flavorful.

Being the second time in two weeks that I have found myself sipping a glass (or two) of Rosso Piceno, I thought I might look it up. A blend specific to the Marche region of Italy, Rosso Piceno is comprised of at least 60% Sangiovese, a fair amount of Montepulciano and smaller amounts of Passerina and Trebbiano, which is actually a white grape. Even my unschooled tongue could taste the spiciness of the Boccadigabbia, and it was a great accompaniment to the food.

Ten years ago, ordering a meat and cheese plate for dinner never would have occurred to me. If you had told me I would one day judge restaurants by the quality of their cheese, I would have been puzzled. Oh, yes, New York, you and your wine bars have changed me!

The particular variety of meats and cheeses enjoyed by myself and R. on Friday included a wild boar Cacciatorini or Italian hunter's sausage and Podda Classico, a rich nutty cheese from Sardinia that is made with cow's and sheep's milk. The meat glossary on the web site of Murray's Cheese Shop indicates that the hunter's sausage is so named because the links were small enough for hunters to carry in their pockets for lunch. Being the sort of on-the-go New Yorker who can't leave the house without appropriate snackage, I like this concept.

Our waitress at Barcibo Enoteca was a little elusive, but all in all the experience was quite enjoyable. (And EB and LB will be happy that I can now suggest a place that is closer to Inwood than the East Village.)

I only had four glasses of wine on Friday night, but somehow I woke up hungover on Saturday morning. My head hurt and the sun seemed very bright, but I had plans to meet CME and her friend K at the cleverly named Sunburnt Cow on Avenue C between 8th and 9th Streets. We were going for the all-you-can-drink brunch, but I promised myself silently on the subway that I would only have one Bloody Mary and call it a day.

I know that some of you are probably laughing at the very thought, but I do sometimes show self restraint. Saturday was just not one of those days. I had two-and-a-half tasty Moo Mary's at Sunburnt Cow and a mediocre brunch while we sat in the pleasantly sunny back "garden." The joint was packed with college kids chasing an early afternoon buzz. We knew we had enjoyed all we could drink when the waitress dropped off our unrequested check and suggested we move to the bar.

From there we wandered up to the Crocodile Lounge on 14th Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues. Half way through my first vodka and soda (with lime), my head was still in that sharp, hangover state of pain that always feels endless. I should have gone home, but perhaps inspired by the college kids at the Sunburnt Cow, I instead asked the bartender if he had any ibuprofen. Thankfully, he did.

My headache went away and we sat at the bar long enough to digest brunch and take advantage of the free pizza they were offering with any drink order. The pizza is made fresh in the bar, and it's really quite good. I wandered home sometime around 7:00 quite satisfied with a day of drinking and quality girl-time.

As is so often the case, there was no rest for a weary gastronomer on Sunday. Friend KG was hosting a barbecue on her balcony. Three city girls and a barbecue turned into last-minute cooking on the stove, but the food was great regardless, and KG is a gracious hostess. Next time, we will remember to open the bottom vent. I'm pretty sure I knew that ten years ago.

One of the highlights of the meal was the turkey sausage from Dipaola Turkey Farm. They have a stand on Fridays at the farmer's market in Union Square. If you are in the area, give it a try; they offer samples!

Well, ladies and g's, there you have it. A weekend of celebrating. Now I am ready for something akin to detox... at least until the next gastronomic adventure! Stay tuned!

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