When It Raines...

LP and I stood in the misting rain on Friday night searching for the Raines Law Room. Without her i-phone to provide us with the address of 48 W. 17th Street we may well have passed it by, which would have been a terrible shame. Next to the Chelsea Inn stands a navy canvas structure, one of those rectangular shelters used by restaurants to buffer the chilly winds and wet weather of snarling hurricanes and winter storms.

We opened the canvas door and descended the steps to a plain wood door, next to which was a small sign with delicate lettering, our only indication that we were in the right place. We pressed the doorbell. I was nervous as to whether I would be allowed in with my old faded jeans and yellow converse sneakers embroidered with butterflies. My worries were unnecessary. The warm host welcomed us in with his sexy accent and charming manner.

He led us down a few steps into a dimly lit room, and suddenly we were no longer in post-millennium New York. We were in an underground Victorian drinking establishment speckled with people in modern dress and infused with tones of early American jazz.

The Raines Law, which was passed in New York in 1896 prohibited the sale of alcoholic beverages on Sundays except in hotels with meals or in the hotel’s sleeping rooms. Back in the day, Sunday was a big drinking day because men worked the other six days of the week. (Personally I have always enjoyed a drink or two on Sunday as well, but I am sure you already know that. Don't worry, though, this is a sober blog post. I am on the Megabus from DC to NY)

Instead of keeping folks out of saloons, however, the Raines Law only encouraged creative thinking among bar owners. Saloons were transformed into hotels by adding rooms, or the pretense of rooms, a trend which led to an increase in prostitution and cohabitation of unmarried couples (scandalous!). Food was displayed, but not necessarily served.

The menu at Raines Law Room is impressive. There are plenty of classic, signature and seasonal cocktails for the ordering as well as nightly specials. After a lengthy perusal and a few questions for our friendly and patient waitress, I chose the Five Points, and LP decided upon the Communist’s Daughter.

The star ingredients of the Five Points are: Laird’s Bonded Applejack, Dolin French Vermouth, Marie Brizard Apry (apricot brandy) and Amaro Ciociaro (a bittersweet Italian liqueur). It was stirred and served in a delicate glass with a star etched in the center with an orange twist and a brandied cherry.

Oh, what a wonderful balance! The flavors danced across my tongue, chasing each other round before whirling down my throat. Just before each sip my nose was blessed with the lovely orange scent of the twist. Fruity, strong and completely balanced. The brandied cherry was a delightful conclusion.

Applejack is just what it sounds like, an alcoholic beverage made from apples. It’s just about as American as apple pie, having made its debut in colonial times. Lairds and Company has been distilling liquors since 1780 long before the Raines Law was even pondered.

The cocktail was credited to J. Thompson on the bar’s menu. Well, J., you did a damn fine job creating that masterpiece.

The Communist’s Daughter included Plymouth Sloe Gin (a red gin made with sloe berries), Aperol (an Italian liqueur the waitress compared to Campari), grapefruit juice and a spritz of Pernod Absinthe. It was shaken and served in a medium tall glass with an orange twist. This creation was attributed to L. Davis.

The drink was shockingly bright, a neon orange-sherbet color. I could appreciate the mix of flavors, but I am not so hot for the bitter sharp after taste of gin or of grapefruit. LP enjoyed it, but noted that she could suck them down and be soused in no time.

In an unusual display of self control, we avoided sousing altogether and stopped after one drink. We both had to be up early on Saturday.

My quest for moderation has faltered a little this week. There is simply too much temptation! I am not strong enough to pass up a good Bloody Mary. I had two on Saturday at Public with CME, and I had one today that was served with cajun spices and a piece of bacon on my lunch/brunch break from a conference in DC at a great local spot called Matchbox. It was quite tasty and most likely the cause of my drifting sleepily when I was supposed to be focusing during a meditative exercise after the break. The goat cheese fritter in the delicious spinach salad with candied walnuts, orange slices and roasted tomatoes may also have contributed.

And so it is. The highlights of another gastronomic week. I have many more cocktails to try at the Raines Law Room, and you are all invited to join me. Stay tuned! And drink up!