Two Bottles of Rum, Three Bottles of Hot Sauce
Quote of the Week (paraphrased): "You can go there for dinner, but you might not be able to get back." ~ Fellow traveler (from Michigan) about the Cubuy Ecolodge restaurant
The truth of those words made me laugh. The staff at Casa Cubuy Ecolodge had told me I could walk the half mile along the narrow winding road to their restaurant. Oh sure, there were a few noisy dogs, but they were harmless. And, I shouldn't worry about not having a flashlight on a starless night in a rain forest where the edge of the road meets either houses guarded by dogs or a drop-off down the side of a mountain.
After the drive up to the lodge and a day that included a long hot ride on a squeaky bike without a map, I was desperate for a glass of wine. So, I started the walk. And, about three minutes later, I turned around and went back for my rental car.
Late that afternoon, I had eaten at a restaurant on the kiosk strip in Luquillo called La Parilla. After a discussion with the waitress about what was not only good but also authentically Puerto Rican, I ordered a seafood stew served on mofongo, which is a mound of fried plantains that have been mashed with garlic and other things. I sipped a cold Medalla (the Puerto Rican equivalent of Budweiser, but the only PR beer available), and enjoyed the beach view and breeze.
The stew included octopus, squid, fish, shrimp and maybe conch in a tomato-based sauce. Two ladies from Brooklyn, whom I had met earlier in the week, had given me the tip about LaParilla. They had also recommended Piñones where the coastline houses a beach with a natural stone formation that creates a waveless pool in the ocean--the perfect dipping spot for ocean-phobes like myself. I rode my squeaky bike to the beach and beyond to nearby Laguna Piñones to work up an appetite for my late lunch.
Bike path (note no one else is on it!):
Event the horse was surprised to see anyone on the secluded path:
After stuffing myself with stew and mofongo, I only had room for wine that night. A few sips into the first glass, a woman from Canada who was traveling with her family hopped on the stool next to me informing she had come over to talk since I was by myself. You may think, readers, that traveling solo is a lonely experience, but it almost never is. I never ate dinner without company, and I met some very interesting and fun folks. And, I heard some great travel stories, like those about the Canadian family touring around Ecuador with a local farmer... the whole family of five crammed into a pick-up truck.
Sure, it would be nice to have a friend along when you take the wrong side of the bike path and end up in a not-so-nice remote neighborhood wearing a little beach skirt and a bikini top. And, yes it would be grand to have a navigator who might prevent you from driving up the wrong mountain road or turning the wrong way down a one-way street in Old San Juan. But really, it is wonderful to make your own schedule, choose your own sites and do things like spend a full hour taking photos of pelicans. (By the way, along that bike ride, I startled an iguana bigger than many a New-York dog.)
Pelicans:
Anyway, back to Casa Cubuy restaurant... I met a couple from Michigan that night as well, who had also been misled about being able to walk back to the lodge in the dark. We spent a good part of the next day trying to find a nearby waterfall and had a great adventure following a muddy path a good ways up the mountain, then down a stream, through a few pools and over slick rocks before finding the acclaimed waterfall. I have a few battle wounds, but it was worth the experience!
That night, they invited me to join them for dinner and a tour of the bioluminescent bay in Farjado. We missed dinner when we were diverted off the highway onto narrow roads treacherously full of potholes and crazy drivers. We instead ate rushed snacks from a bar near the launching dock for kayak tours. The "snacks" inPuerto Rico are so tasty! Pastelillos and arepas (made with flour not corn) that are stuffed with savory fish or meat were my favorite.
After a Medalla and a few bites, we had to hurry to make the tour with Yokahu Kayak Trips. Being the only single traveler, I was in a kayak with the guide, which was fantastic because the narrow waterway leading to the bay was completely dark with the exception of the rocks and fish which glowed lightly in the water. The tour is an amazing and unique experience. You place your hand in the water and the tinybioluminescent organisms light up (yes, just like Avatar, but without the terribly written Hollywood storyline).
The next day I was off to the island of Culebra, where I photographed pelicans on Flamenco Beach, which some say is among the top ten most beautiful in the world. The ferry there was so rough the attendant actually walked around handing out little white bags. Luckily I kept my breakfast. Although I tried to have lunch at a local haunt recommended by a co-worker the kitchen had closed before my arrival.
Flamenco Beach:
When you are traveling there is nothing better than a great meal, and I had the best of Puerto Rico on the first and last days of my trip. Dinner on Monday was with the two ladies from Brooklyn at Pamela's Caribbean Cuisine which is part of the Numero Uno guesthouse on the beach in Ocean Park, San Juan. I started with a salad that was served with a passion fruit and balsamic gelee and had an excellent spicy codfish with tiger shrimp and mashed yucca for a main. The ladies had tilapia in a green curry sauce and rack of lamb with a pepper crust.
After my companions left to go to a nearby casino I sat on the beach, listening to the sounds of the ocean and the rain, while sipping a glass of three-starBarrilito, an aged Puerto Rican rum recommended by the friendly waiter.
On Saturday, just before I had to leave for the airport, I ate an early lunch at El Jibarito in Old San Juan. The helpful proprietor at the gourmet shop Spicy Caribbee recommended it as a local favorite. I ordered the chicken stew with rice and beans and tostones (flattened and fried plantains). It was the most flavorful meal of the trip, and at $10 including a cafe con leche, the most reasonable.
Another noteworthy spot is Kasalta. During my two days in Ocean Park, Kasalta became my neighborhood favorite. A quesito (a sweet pastry filled with salty cream cheese) and their strong, rich cafe con leche made the perfect breakfast. I also ate a late delicious dinner there one night of manchego cheese, serrano ham and red wine. The restaurant is just down the block from Andalucia Guest House, a wonderful place to stay with warm, hospitable hosts.
Well, readers. I have gone on too long. If you are still with me, thanks for hanging in there. Before I leave you, I would just like to give a shout out to first man Steve, who landed the Jet Blue plane I was on yesterday at JFK in the middle of a crazy windy rainstorm. I don't know how fast 57 knots is, but the winds were tossing the plane about like a toy. But Steve got us safely on the ground, and I was ecstatic to be at JFK and not some random airport near West Point where previous flights had been diverted.
Stay tuned! I have two bottles of Puerto Rican rum and three bottles of hot sauce. A party is brewing!
Farjado:
Quote of the Week (paraphrased): "You can go there for dinner, but you might not be able to get back." ~ Fellow traveler (from Michigan) about the Cubuy Ecolodge restaurant
The truth of those words made me laugh. The staff at Casa Cubuy Ecolodge had told me I could walk the half mile along the narrow winding road to their restaurant. Oh sure, there were a few noisy dogs, but they were harmless. And, I shouldn't worry about not having a flashlight on a starless night in a rain forest where the edge of the road meets either houses guarded by dogs or a drop-off down the side of a mountain.
After the drive up to the lodge and a day that included a long hot ride on a squeaky bike without a map, I was desperate for a glass of wine. So, I started the walk. And, about three minutes later, I turned around and went back for my rental car.
Late that afternoon, I had eaten at a restaurant on the kiosk strip in Luquillo called La Parilla. After a discussion with the waitress about what was not only good but also authentically Puerto Rican, I ordered a seafood stew served on mofongo, which is a mound of fried plantains that have been mashed with garlic and other things. I sipped a cold Medalla (the Puerto Rican equivalent of Budweiser, but the only PR beer available), and enjoyed the beach view and breeze.
The stew included octopus, squid, fish, shrimp and maybe conch in a tomato-based sauce. Two ladies from Brooklyn, whom I had met earlier in the week, had given me the tip about LaParilla. They had also recommended Piñones where the coastline houses a beach with a natural stone formation that creates a waveless pool in the ocean--the perfect dipping spot for ocean-phobes like myself. I rode my squeaky bike to the beach and beyond to nearby Laguna Piñones to work up an appetite for my late lunch.
Bike path (note no one else is on it!):
Event the horse was surprised to see anyone on the secluded path:
After stuffing myself with stew and mofongo, I only had room for wine that night. A few sips into the first glass, a woman from Canada who was traveling with her family hopped on the stool next to me informing she had come over to talk since I was by myself. You may think, readers, that traveling solo is a lonely experience, but it almost never is. I never ate dinner without company, and I met some very interesting and fun folks. And, I heard some great travel stories, like those about the Canadian family touring around Ecuador with a local farmer... the whole family of five crammed into a pick-up truck.
Sure, it would be nice to have a friend along when you take the wrong side of the bike path and end up in a not-so-nice remote neighborhood wearing a little beach skirt and a bikini top. And, yes it would be grand to have a navigator who might prevent you from driving up the wrong mountain road or turning the wrong way down a one-way street in Old San Juan. But really, it is wonderful to make your own schedule, choose your own sites and do things like spend a full hour taking photos of pelicans. (By the way, along that bike ride, I startled an iguana bigger than many a New-York dog.)
Pelicans:
Anyway, back to Casa Cubuy restaurant... I met a couple from Michigan that night as well, who had also been misled about being able to walk back to the lodge in the dark. We spent a good part of the next day trying to find a nearby waterfall and had a great adventure following a muddy path a good ways up the mountain, then down a stream, through a few pools and over slick rocks before finding the acclaimed waterfall. I have a few battle wounds, but it was worth the experience!
That night, they invited me to join them for dinner and a tour of the bioluminescent bay in Farjado. We missed dinner when we were diverted off the highway onto narrow roads treacherously full of potholes and crazy drivers. We instead ate rushed snacks from a bar near the launching dock for kayak tours. The "snacks" inPuerto Rico are so tasty! Pastelillos and arepas (made with flour not corn) that are stuffed with savory fish or meat were my favorite.
After a Medalla and a few bites, we had to hurry to make the tour with Yokahu Kayak Trips. Being the only single traveler, I was in a kayak with the guide, which was fantastic because the narrow waterway leading to the bay was completely dark with the exception of the rocks and fish which glowed lightly in the water. The tour is an amazing and unique experience. You place your hand in the water and the tinybioluminescent organisms light up (yes, just like Avatar, but without the terribly written Hollywood storyline).
The next day I was off to the island of Culebra, where I photographed pelicans on Flamenco Beach, which some say is among the top ten most beautiful in the world. The ferry there was so rough the attendant actually walked around handing out little white bags. Luckily I kept my breakfast. Although I tried to have lunch at a local haunt recommended by a co-worker the kitchen had closed before my arrival.
Flamenco Beach:
When you are traveling there is nothing better than a great meal, and I had the best of Puerto Rico on the first and last days of my trip. Dinner on Monday was with the two ladies from Brooklyn at Pamela's Caribbean Cuisine which is part of the Numero Uno guesthouse on the beach in Ocean Park, San Juan. I started with a salad that was served with a passion fruit and balsamic gelee and had an excellent spicy codfish with tiger shrimp and mashed yucca for a main. The ladies had tilapia in a green curry sauce and rack of lamb with a pepper crust.
After my companions left to go to a nearby casino I sat on the beach, listening to the sounds of the ocean and the rain, while sipping a glass of three-starBarrilito, an aged Puerto Rican rum recommended by the friendly waiter.
On Saturday, just before I had to leave for the airport, I ate an early lunch at El Jibarito in Old San Juan. The helpful proprietor at the gourmet shop Spicy Caribbee recommended it as a local favorite. I ordered the chicken stew with rice and beans and tostones (flattened and fried plantains). It was the most flavorful meal of the trip, and at $10 including a cafe con leche, the most reasonable.
Another noteworthy spot is Kasalta. During my two days in Ocean Park, Kasalta became my neighborhood favorite. A quesito (a sweet pastry filled with salty cream cheese) and their strong, rich cafe con leche made the perfect breakfast. I also ate a late delicious dinner there one night of manchego cheese, serrano ham and red wine. The restaurant is just down the block from Andalucia Guest House, a wonderful place to stay with warm, hospitable hosts.
Well, readers. I have gone on too long. If you are still with me, thanks for hanging in there. Before I leave you, I would just like to give a shout out to first man Steve, who landed the Jet Blue plane I was on yesterday at JFK in the middle of a crazy windy rainstorm. I don't know how fast 57 knots is, but the winds were tossing the plane about like a toy. But Steve got us safely on the ground, and I was ecstatic to be at JFK and not some random airport near West Point where previous flights had been diverted.
Stay tuned! I have two bottles of Puerto Rican rum and three bottles of hot sauce. A party is brewing!
Farjado:
sounds like a fantastic trip!! Puerto Rico is awesome- so glad it all worked out well. Next you have to try the dominican for their rum and mofongo. Similar but different. Yum! ~v
ReplyDeleteGlad you had such a cool trip-told you it would be a great photo-op! Also, it's nice to hear from someone else who wasn't that impressed with Avatar lol...
ReplyDelete