Lobster Supper

Hello, Bonjour, ladies and g's! Urban Gastronomy is coming to you from Nova Scotia this fine, but chilly Sunday evening. I'm cozy in a cottage in the Margaree Valley, sipping a warming glass of red wine after a day of eating, whiskey-tasting, and fiddle appreciation. I might otherwise be outside gazing at the stars... For a city-girl like me, a dark night sky is quite the site. (You can even see the Milky Way!) But, it's cloudy, so here I am, at the keyboard trying to squeeze a post out of my vacation brain.

I'm in such a state that I fear you all might be disappointed with my lack of wit this evening (and/or the amount of typos in this post). But isn't that the most wonderful thing about being on holiday!? No wit required, just enough rational thought to read a map.

Yes, without the right set of GPS maps for Canada and with no cell or data service due to ex-US roaming charges, my dad and I have been forced to go old-school. We've done quite well. We made it from Halifax to Cape Breton Island and into the Highlands National Park, where I saw my first eagle!

I also landed a ruffed grouse, which was a "lifer" for my dad. For those of you without a serious bird-watcher in your life, that's a new species for your lifetime sightings list. It's a big deal, and it came at just the right time. It was our fourth hike of the day... and the day before I insisted that we walk the nearly 6-mile Skyline Trail. I'm a little surprise my dad didn't just leave me in the park.

But it was worth it. We saw ocean, cliffs, a bog, a pitcher plant working on a meal, a waterfall, a heart-shaped mushroom, fairy-tale pines, tiny lichen forests, tree-root lined trails, an eagle, and a grouse.

We did not, however, see a moose. As hard as we have tried, the moose has remained elusive. We hear that they are common enough to be a nuisance and yet they have eluded us. We have also missed the coyote, which it turns out, might try to eat us if we run. Back away first and then make yourself look big and scary... but just in case, you should also carry a stick and use it if needed... but don't worry about the bears, just the coyotes... if you see a moose, though, do not do anything to aggravate it... This is, in sum, the hiking advice we received.

Anyway, I could ramble unchecked about our adventures in the great northern land of Canada, but I'll save the nitty gritty reviews for another time. We ended our adventure yesterday with a lobster supper in Baddeck. Also a first for me! I've graduated from lobster bisque and lobster rolls to lobster supper!

It was about as exciting as seeing that eagle. The folks at Baddeck Lobster Suppers made it really easy by cracking open the shell before serving and offering helpful advice including "try the roe and leave the liver," which I did. I still haven't decided how to describe the taste of the waxy roe, but I owe our server an email if I ever find the words.

Stay tuned for more about UG's adventures in Nova Scotia. Until then my friends, good night, bonsoir!